The routine, in order
- Look and listen. Take the lid off the pit. Note the water level, any oily sheen or smell, and debris like gravel or silt around the pump.
- Check the power. Confirm the pump is plugged into a functioning outlet. If it uses a piggyback float plug, both plugs should be seated firmly.
- Fill the pit. Empty a garden-pail of hose water into the crock; once the float bobs up, the motor ought to hum on, pull the level down and shut off cleanly.
- Watch the check valve. Whenever the pump stops, you should hear a soft thump as the check valve closes. Water running back into the pit means the valve is failing.
- Go outside. Follow the discharge line to where it ends. It should be clear of ice and snow, and the water should drain away from the foundation, not pool at the wall.
- Try the backup pump. With a battery backup, pull the main pump's plug and send a second bucket in. Check the battery's age and charge indicator.
- Test the alarm. If you have a high-water alarm, lift its float to make sure it sounds.
Why this matters in Pickering
Pickering's spring is a busy one for basements. Snowmelt, frozen ground that will not absorb water and heavy April rain arrive together, and clay soils in much of the city drain slowly. Homes in newer northern subdivisions such as Duffin Heights and Seaton rely on sump pumps by design, and many older houses had pits added after a wet year. A pump that sat idle all winter may have a stuck float, a seized impeller or a frozen discharge line, and you only find out when water is already rising.
Phone if the pump never kicks on, or runs on without the water dropping, cycles constantly or makes grinding noises.
Slips worth avoiding
- Leaving the discharge line connected to a flexible hose that freezes or gets crushed by snow
- Running the discharge into the sanitary drain or laundry tub, which is not permitted and overloads the sewer during storms
- Letting the float rub against the pit wall or cord, where it can stick
- Assuming a pump is fine because it hums; humming without pumping usually means a jammed impeller or a failed motor
- Ignoring a battery that is more than a few years old
Time to ring a plumber
Phone if the pump never kicks on, or runs on without the water dropping, cycles constantly or makes grinding noises. Call too if the check valve leaks back, the discharge line is damaged or the pump is past about ten years old. Our sump pump service covers testing, repairs and replacement, and pairing a new unit with a battery backup sump pump protects you during a power outage. If water has already come in, our guide on what to do when the basement floods walks through the first hours. While we are on site in spring, it is also a good time to inspect the other basement equipment, such as a tired tank needing electric water heater repair.
Questions callers ask
When should I put my sump pump through a test?
At least twice a year, in early spring and late fall, and after any long stretch of disuse.
What if my pit is always dry?
Some pumps rarely run. Test it anyway; a pump that has sat for years is more likely to seize when it is finally needed.